SUNTORY COMPARISON TASTING
A few years ago, I had a Hakushu 12 that seemed to stand out from prior releases. The expression had always been enjoyable, but did not really stand out, at least for me. However, this particular bottle was memorable. Had my flavor profile developed that I now appreciated subtleties previously unperceived? Or was this particular batch just a little more outstanding than prior (and subsequent) releases?
Unfortunately, this was prior to my discovering bottling codes, so I never recorded the code and wasn't able to successfully hunt for more of that particular batch. However, it did put the thought into my head: Did Hakushu 12 or Yamazaki 12 or Hibiki 17 taste differently/better from batch to batch. What about bottlings from 15-20 years ago...
Background: Added to Yamazaki's core range in 1995, this expression, along with the Hakushu 10, were among the first casualties of the dwindling supply of Japanese whisky as both were discontinued in 2012. Neither expression ever made it to the United States. The Pure Malt designation is really a misnomer - this is definitely a single malt. Click here to read more on what's up with that.
Background: The first Yamazaki Single (Pure) Malt launched in 1984 to celebrate the distillery's 60th anniversary as a No Age Statement. The 12 Year succeeded that one in 1986 and has been around ever since.
Background: The 12 Year arrived in both the U.S. and Europe in the early 1990s, as did the original Hibiki NAS. Those two expressions appear to be about all that Suntory distributed outside of Japan that decade, aside from the mid-range blends like Suntory Royal.
Background: Watami is a restaurant chain in Japan that has been offering exclusive Suntory whiskies to their customers since at least 2008. The President Choice and the Founders Choice are both unique variations of Yamazaki 12. There's a Suntory Blenders Choice as well.
Unfortunately, this was prior to my discovering bottling codes, so I never recorded the code and wasn't able to successfully hunt for more of that particular batch. However, it did put the thought into my head: Did Hakushu 12 or Yamazaki 12 or Hibiki 17 taste differently/better from batch to batch. What about bottlings from 15-20 years ago...
* YAMAZAKI FLIGHT *
Expression 1
10 Year Pure Malt
10 Year Pure Malt
Background: Added to Yamazaki's core range in 1995, this expression, along with the Hakushu 10, were among the first casualties of the dwindling supply of Japanese whisky as both were discontinued in 2012. Neither expression ever made it to the United States. The Pure Malt designation is really a misnomer - this is definitely a single malt. Click here to read more on what's up with that.
Stats: ABV=40%. Bottled 1996/97. 750ml Japan Bottling.
Tasting Notes: The opener presented itself as a lighter version of Yamazaki 12, which makes sense since it's younger and at a lower ABV. What was surprising was the honey notes that I usually associate with Hakushu 12.
| Worth Drinking Again? | Worth Buying a Pour? | Worth Buying a Bottle? |
|---|---|---|
| YES | YES | YES |
Expression 2
12 Year Pure Malt
12 Year Pure Malt
Background: The first Yamazaki Single (Pure) Malt launched in 1984 to celebrate the distillery's 60th anniversary as a No Age Statement. The 12 Year succeeded that one in 1986 and has been around ever since.
Stats: ABV=43%. Bottled 2001/02.
750ml Japan Bottling.
Tasting Notes: The nose is nutty, but fairly flat. Definitely lighter and sweeter than current offerings. Big time confectioners sugar finish. It seemed likely that this iteration was solely designed for the Japanese palate and that the heavier results from recent years are geared more to a worldwide market.
| Worth Drinking Again? | Worth Buying a Dram? | Worth Buying a Bottle? |
|---|---|---|
| YES | YES | YES |
Expression 3
12 Year Single Malt
12 Year Single Malt
Background: The 12 Year arrived in both the U.S. and Europe in the early 1990s, as did the original Hibiki NAS. Those two expressions appear to be about all that Suntory distributed outside of Japan that decade, aside from the mid-range blends like Suntory Royal.
Stats: ABV=43%. Bottled 2016.
750ml US Bottling.
Tasting Notes: That characteristic flat, nutty nose is still present, but the overall impression is a heavier spirit compared to the early 2000s offering. There's a little more sherry and licorice notes. Woodier. Admittedly, I'm very familiar with this flavor profile from recent years - I've consumed a lot of it! The earlier version just felt like a breath of fresh air. Even the 10 year seemed to have a more interesting range. It's all probably just relative.
| Worth Drinking Again? | Worth Buying a Dram? | Worth Buying a Bottle? |
|---|---|---|
| YES | YES | YES |
Expression 4
12 Year Watami President Choice
12 Year Watami President Choice
Background: Watami is a restaurant chain in Japan that has been offering exclusive Suntory whiskies to their customers since at least 2008. The President Choice and the Founders Choice are both unique variations of Yamazaki 12. There's a Suntory Blenders Choice as well.
Stats: ABV=43%. Bottled 2013/14.
660ml Japan Bottling.
Tasting Notes: The big Sherry nose sets this one apart at the onset from the regular 12, and evolves into soft and flowery. The taste, while not as heavy, has the expected woodiness but adds a crazy hazelnut finish that lingers.
| Worth Drinking Again? | Worth Buying a Dram? | Worth Buying a Bottle? |
|---|---|---|
| YES | YES | YES |
* HIBIKI FLIGHT *
Expression 1
17 Year (~2002)
17 Year (~2002)
Background: Hibiki was introduced as Suntory's first premium blend in 1989, ninety years after the company was founded. That initial No Age Statement expression evolved into the 17 Year by 2001.
Stats: ABV=43%. Bottled 2002/03. 750ml Japan Bottling.
Tasting Notes: Not much of a nose but the taste lives up to their "harmonious blend" tagline: subtle complexities with a light, pleasant mouth feel and mizunara notes on the finish. Mizunara is Japanese Oak - whisky barrels made from that wood are rare and expensive. What mizunara oak transfers to the spirit is hard to describe, but when you taste this, or the 21, you immediately recognize it!
| Worth Drinking Again? | Worth Buying a Pour? | Worth Buying a Bottle? |
|---|---|---|
| YES | YES | NO |
Expression 2
17 Year (2017)
17 Year (2017)
Background:
Along with Hakushu 12, Hibiki 17 was recently suspended from regular production. As if bottles weren't hard enough to find already! With news like that, it's easy to jump to conclusions that they've been discontinued entirely. But it's entirely possible that production has only slowed and/or that distribution will be limited. Now, if they report the same thing for Hibiik 21 in a couple years, then it's really time to panic!
Stats: ABV = 43%. Bottled 2017.
750ml US Bottling.
Tasting Notes: Similar complex range as the prior bottle, with a more floral nose, spicer taste and additional Sherry notes on the finish. I actually prefer this to the older one.
| Worth Drinking Again? | Worth Buying a Dram? | Worth Buying a Bottle? |
|---|---|---|
| YES | YES | NO |
Expression 3
12 Year
12 Year
Background: Introduced in 2009 and discontinued in 2015. Unlike any other Hibiki expression, the 12 contains spirit aged in plum wine casks. Note that the 12 does not become the 17 which does not become the 21. They are all unique animals.
Stats: ABV = 43%. Bottled 2014.
750ml US Bottling.
Tasting Notes: Younger spirit results in sharper flavors to create the illusion of a higher ABV, but, of course, it's the same 43% as the others. Overall, there appears to be less sherry and possibly no mizunara in the blend, so the plum wine notes of chocolate ovaltine tend to stand out amongst this particular harmonious blend.
| Worth Drinking Again? | Worth Buying a Dram? | Worth Buying a Bottle? |
|---|---|---|
| YES | YES | YES |
* HAKUSHU FLIGHT *
Expression 1
12 Year Pure Malt
12 Year Pure Malt
Background: The first release from Hakushu was the 12 Year Single (Pure) Malt, debuting in 1994, just over 20 years after that distillery was constructed in 1973.
Stats: ABV=43%. Bottled 1997/98.
750ml Japan Bottling.
Tasting Notes: Hakushu has a reputation of being on the peaty side. While that's definitely true compared to Yamazaki, it's nowhere near your average Islay peat. However, this late 90s version hits with medium peat right away, drifts toward spicy cinnamon honey and ends with a little smokey finish. Totally different than recent batches, but equally as good, if not better. I need to compare this with Laphroaig 15 or 18 at some point.
| Worth Drinking Again? | Worth Buying a Dram? | Worth Buying a Bottle? |
|---|---|---|
| YES | YES | YES |
Expression 2
12 Year Single Malt
12 Year Single Malt
Background: Prior to 2018, Hakushu 12 has been sold with an outer box in all territories except the United States. But last year, BeamSuntory finally included an outer box with their US bottlings. Then, as previously mentioned, they promptly suspended the expression. Oddly enough, this same "strategic" scenario was utilized with Hibiki 12 in 2015. Weird.
Stats: ABV=43%. Bottled 2017
. 750ml Japan Bottling.
Tasting Notes: Not as big of a range as I was hoping for. Bolder finish than the 90s bottling. I so wish i would have written down the bottle code from the magical batch of a few years prior. 2015, maybe? Grr.
| Worth Drinking Again? | Worth Buying a Dram? | Worth Buying a Bottle? |
|---|---|---|
| YES | YES | YES |
Expression 3
1996 Single Cask 12 Year
1996 Single Cask 12 Year
Background: Yamazaki and Hakushu both provided two single cask releases each to celebrate the 150th Anniversary of Yokohama Port. This Hakushu is the first release from 2008 and was limited to 312 bottles.
Stats: Ex-Red Wine Cask. ABV=63%. Bottled 2008.
#78/312. 700ml Japan Bottling.
Tasting Notes: What a nose! Could it be Bordeaux? Huge range: flowery sweet, nutty goodness, and chocolate! Boom goes the dynamite!! With water, flavors leveled out as expected and the spirit felt more oily. But with or without, this one is a winner! More cask strength Hakushu, please.
| Worth Drinking Again? | Worth Buying a Dram? | Worth Buying a Bottle? |
|---|---|---|
| YES | YES | YES |
[Tasting conducted with the Sneaky Trips Tasting Group which consists of Whisk(e)y Enthusiasts ranging from Beginner to Advanced. Tastings are held monthly and are usually 8 Expressions based on a particular theme.]
