Wednesday, December 19, 2018



CAMPBELTOWN TASTING

For me, the flavor profile of the Campbeltown Region trends towards a lovely combination of Highland, Lowland, and Islay.  No matter what malt whisky path you take, all roads eventually lead to Campbeltown. 

* FLIGHT ONE *
Expression 1
 Springbank 10 Year 

Background: Before World War I, Campbeltown was the center of Scotch whisky production and exporting. Now, Springbank is not only one of the last privately owned distilleries in Scotland, it's also one of the last in the entire region.  Furthermore, they produce their whisky from grain to glass, all on site.  And, all of their expressions are distilled 2.5 times, non-chillfiltered, and no added color. 

Stats: Bourbon + Sherry Casks.  ABV = 46%. Bottled ~2005.

Tasting Notes: Cracked this dusty and it was smooth as honey right out of the bottle.  Whereas the last 10 Year I had was probably a 2013 bottling, and the experience was dramatically different.  That one needed some air in the bottle to get to where this one was right away.  One of the most complex 10 Year Olds you'll ever enjoy.

Worth Drinking Again?Worth Buying a Dram?Worth Buying a Bottle?
YESYESYES

Expression 2
 Hazelburn 12 Year  

Background: The original Hazelburn Distillery existed in Campbeltown from 1825-1925, a victim of the aforementioned post-WWI decline.  The Mitchell Family, owners of Springbank, resurrected the name to market their triple-distilled, non-peated product.  Their first release in 2005 was an 8 Year expression.  Next up was this 12 Year, followed by the current 10.

Stats: Bourbon + Sherry Casks. ABV = 46%.  Bottled 2012.

Tasting Notes: While this is unpeated, I still get some medicinal notes, or perhaps it's more mineral?  Not a big range on the taste, I'm afraid that extra distillation removed all the interesting stuff!  I'll have to compare this sometime to the Auchentoshan 12.  Easy drinking for sure, just not a lot going enjoy.

Worth Drinking Again?Worth Buying a Dram?Worth Buying a Bottle?
YESNONO

Expression 3
 Kilkerran 12 Year 

Background: Glengyle operated in Campbeltown from 1872-1925, but found itself another victim of the post-WWI decline.  In 2004, the Mitchell Family resurrected the distillery, but could not name its spirit Glengyle as the other whiskymaker in town, Glen Scotia, owns that name.  Thus it was dubbed Kilkerran, in homage to the founder of the city.  

Stats: ABV = 46%.  Bottled ~2017.
 

Tasting Notes: Nice kettle corn nose and delicious from the get go. Creamy vanilla and cinnamon spice, plus a long finish.  Worthy of being a regular 'go to' at home and at the local bar.

Worth Drinking Again?Worth Buying a Dram?Worth Buying a Bottle?
YESYESYES

Expression 4
 Longrow Peated 

Background: Named after another mothballed Campbeltown distillery, this is Springbank's heavily peated malt.  While production commenced in 1973, the first official distillery release wasn't until 2000 with their 10 Year expression, which evolved into this NAS version in 2012.

Stats: ABV = 46%. Bottled 2017. 
 

Tasting Notes: Regular Springbank's are lightly peated, of course, but Longrow's like this one deliver big peat on the nose as well as a  smokey finish, all the while remaining well-balanced.  The taste is brown sugar and a mix of corn sweetness and vanilla.  While this is very enjoyable, there's not a huge range of flavor.  Save your money and apply it to high proof age statement Longrows.

Worth Drinking Again?Worth Buying a Dram?Worth Buying a Bottle?
YESYESNO

* FLIGHT TWO *
Expression 1
 Cadenhead 1992 Glen Scotia 25 Year 

Background: Founded in 1832, the 'other' distillery in Campbeltown is Glen Scotia.  Operating on and off since then, ownership fell to Loch Lomand in 2000.  Recently, the brand has made a big push into worldwide markets with their excellent Double Cask, 15 Year, and Victoriana expressions, among others.  Cadenhead is an independent bottler based in Campbeltown, and owned by Springbank's Mitchell Family.  A two horse town, to be sure.  Also worth mentioning is that both Springbank and Glen Scotia operate inside the middle of the city and not on the romantic outskirts or countryside of Scotland.

Stats:  Bourbon Cask. ABV = 44%. Bottled 2017. 
 

Tasting Notes: Spicy Sweet Floral Nose.  Mineral notes on the taste along with marzipan and soft pear-like fruit.

Worth Drinking Again?Worth Buying a Dram?Worth Buying a Bottle?
YESYESNO

Expression 2
 Longrow Red 11 Year Port  

Background: Another difference from Springbank is that Longrows are double distilled.  The Red series has been an annual release since 2012 and features 11 to 13 Year old cask strength spirit aged (or finished) in a different type of red wine cask.  This release is the only one so far that was aged entirely in one type of cask.  

Stats: Fresh Port Cask. ABV = 51.8 %. Bottled 2014.
 Limited to 9000 bottles worldwide.

Tasting Notes: Peat salt, plus sweet & spicy Port nose.  Then that taste: rich and bold and complex.  Oily with tingly tannins. The finish lingers and lingers and then some peaty notes creep in at the end.  So good!  Definitely benefits with a little air, but I'd skip adding any water.

Worth Drinking Again?Worth Buying a Dram?Worth Buying a Bottle?
YESYESYES

Expression 3
 Kilkerran Work In Progress 7 

WIP 4 thru 7 each
had a Sherry Wood and
a Bourbon Wood release
Background: So why did the Mitchells bring back Glengyle if they couldn't name the whisky after the distillery?  I'm assuming it's because the original Glengyle was also owned by one of the family's ancestors.  Back in the day, a couple brothers had a falling out and one member left Springbank to form Glengyle. Another reason is almost assuredly so there could be a third distillery in the region and thereby qualify Campeltown as an official region for scotch. Kilkerran's first release was in 2007, followed by the annual Work In Progress series which ended with this release.

Stats: Bourbon Cask.  ABV = 54.1%. Bottled 2015.
 

Tasting Notes: This was the only one in the series at cask strength.  Surprisingly disappointing.  Hot on the nose, basic bourbon notes on taste and not a big range.

Worth Drinking Again?Worth Buying a Dram?Worth Buying a Bottle?
NONONO

Expression 4
 Springbank 1999 Local Barley 16 Year 

Looks like we
saved the best
for last - Again!
Background: This one marks the return of the infamous Local Barley series, missing from Springbank's retail offerings since 2001.  The barley was grown on a farm a few miles away from the distillery and then floor malted, distilled two and a half times, aged and bottled on site. Can't get more old school than that!

Stats: Bourbon + Sherry Casks.  ABV =  54.3%. Bottled 2016.
 

Tasting Notes: Game Changer!  If you haven't experienced Springbank before, after this one, it will be all  you can think about.  Each complex note has a wide range which keeps evolving. Nose is a little briny smoke, a little honey rose, a little spice, and a lot of full maltiness.  Taste is tingly classic Springbank with balance between Sherry and Bourbon.  Oil and mineral notes with a hint of powdered chocolate. Warming honey coated finish.
Worth Drinking Again?Worth Buying a Dram?Worth Buying a Bottle?
YESYESYES

[Tasting conducted with the Sneaky Trips Tasting Group which consists of Whisk(e)y Enthusiasts ranging from Beginner to Advanced.  Tastings are held monthly and are usually 8 Expressions based on a particular theme.]

Friday, November 30, 2018


LOWLANDS TASTING

Auchentoshan has dominated the region in recent years, partly due to so many of their Lowlands brethren being mothballed in the 1990s.  So, it was nice to dive into some of the new, as well as, returning distilleries.  Next time we could even have some new Rosebank!

* FLIGHT ONE *
Expression 1
 Highland Harvest Sauternes Finish 
 

Background: An independent bottler known for its organic scotch whiskies.  Where their single malt comes from is not disclosed on the bottle.  A lazy man could assume that it's from the Highlands.  That same man could also assume that Highland Park comes from the Highlands as well. ðŸ‘€  Since this expression won the 2015 World Whisky Award for Best Lowland Single Malt, I'll go with Lowlands.

Stats: Organic.  Finished in Sauternes Casks.  ABV = 46%. Bottled 2017.

Tasting Notes: This was our "opener" - a basic single malt to get the palate acclimated. The nose was interesting in a sugary, spicy way.  Taste drifted towards soft honey with a nutty quick finish. 
Worth Drinking Again?Worth Buying a Pour?Worth Buying a Bottle?
YESNONO

Expression 2
 Daftmill 2006 Summer Batch - 11 Year 

"Crafted by the honest,
simple, hard-working indigenous
peoples of... wherever." 
Background: Part-time craft distillery located on a family-owned farm that grows barley.  They've only released two expressions, both in 2018,  this being their second. Current retail per bottle is, well... daft.  And asking price for their inaugural offering is almost daft and a half.  Seems like the image they are going for is craft beer distiller or artisan winery. 

Stats: First Fill Bourbon, ex-Heaven Hill. Limited to 1665 bottles. ABV = 46%.  Bottled 2018.

Tasting Notes: Nose presents spicy cinnamon and powdered sugar.  Herbal, mineral taste plus grapefruit without the bitter.  Overall I'm missing the expected bourbon notes.  Quick finish. Definitely interested in future releases, but the conclusion on this offering is a new distillery still finding their way.
Worth Drinking Again?Worth Buying a Dram?Worth Buying a Bottle?
NONONO

Expression 3
 Bladnoch Samsara 

Background:  
Founded in 1817, Bladnoch is the southern most distillery in Scotland.  Since the 1950s, operations have ceased and continued just as often as ownership changes.  This No Age Statement expression was bottled by the current proprietor as part of their 200th Anniversary Series.

Stats: California Red Wine and Bourbon Casks.  NAS. ABV = 46.7%.  Bottled 2017.
 

Tasting Notes: Admittedly, I had low expectations for this one, so that may have contributed to being pleasantly surprised.  Nose is creamy and malty while the mouthfeel was rich, oily and buttery.   The master distiller did a fantastic job of blending and balancing the flavors from red wine casks and bourbon barrels.

Worth Drinking Again?Worth Buying a Dram?Worth Buying a Bottle?
YESYESYES

Expression 4
 Ailsa Bay (Batch #1) 

Background: Girvan, a successful grain distillery since 1963, is back in the single malt game with their Ailsa Bay expressions.  (Why they didn't call it Ladyburn like their prior single malt can only be answered by a team of crack marketing gurus.)   Construction began in 2007 and officially opened in 2009.

Stats: Bourbon Cask. NAS. ABV = 48.9%. Bottled 2015/16. 
 

Tasting Notes: Peated Lowland!! So looking forward to this one. Peat nose with honey sugar.  While their second offering is subtitled 'Sweet Smoke', this one should be called 'Sweet Peat'.  It's basic peated malt aged in bourbon casks just like a Laphroaig, but with a lighter finish, and no medicinal qualities to mention.  Smooth and drinkable all day long.

Worth Drinking Again?Worth Buying a Dram?Worth Buying a Bottle?
YESYESYES

Expression 5
 Glenkinchie 12 Year Limited Edition 

 
Background: Established in 1837, Glenkinchie, along with Auchentoshan, are the only two Lowlands distilleries that have been continuously operating since World War II.  This one-time release may have inspired the regular 10 Year to be discontinued in favor of a regular non-cask strength 12 Year.

Stats: Limited Edition #1904/5010. ABV = 58.7%. Bottled 2004. 
 

Tasting Notes: Spice and nutmeg on the nose.  Rich, dense toffee coffee on the taste.  The finish is long as expected with the higher ABV and even remains that way even after adding a few drops of water.   

Worth Drinking Again?Worth Buying a Dram?Worth Buying a Bottle?
YESYESYES

* FLIGHT TWO *
Expression 1
 Bladnoch 12 Year Sherry Matured 

Background: From the hideous label you can probably tell that we're jumping back to a previous regime.  After being closed in 1993, Bladnoch reopened in 2000.  Twelve years or so later, this expression was released,  only to find the company out of business again in 2014.  Luckily the distillery was rescued by an Australian entrepreneur in 2015.

Stats:  Sherry Cask. ABV = 46%. Bottled ~2013. 
 

Tasting Notes: A lovely sherry nose that smells hotter than 46%.  Typical sherry notes, oily and chocolatey.  Overall, just what you would want from a 12 Year Sherry.  Too bad this one went away when the previous owners had to liquidate.  All the blame most likely goes to the poor label design.

Worth Drinking Again?Worth Buying a Dram?Worth Buying a Bottle?
YESYESNO

Expression 2
 CWC Lowland - Ailsa Bay #AB004  

Background: This Lowland bottling from the Creative Whisky Company comes from the Ailsa Bay distillery.  CWC is best known for its Exclusive Malts, Exclusive Casks, and, Exclusive Range brands.

Stats: NAS.  Cask #AB004.  ABV = 50 %. Bottled 2017.
 

Tasting Notes: Unlike the prior distillery expression, this one is not peated.  It has an interesting meringue nose and that's about it.  Taste is very nice and pleasant, but one note, basic Lowlands. The finish has a bit of a glazed donut appeal.

Worth Drinking Again?Worth Buying a Dram?Worth Buying a Bottle?
NONONO

Expression 3
 1991 Glenkinchie 24 Year 

Background: One of the overpriced annual Diageo Special Releases.

Stats: Refill European Oak Butts.  Limited Edition #1904/5928.  ABV = 52.7%. Bottled 2016.
 

Tasting Notes: Confection sugar nose - the sugary smell of a bakery.  The refill sherry offers subtle syrupy notes along with salted butter.  Well balanced and complex.  Much more tasty than expected - it's just too bad the suggested retail on these is so high.

Worth Drinking Again?Worth Buying a Dram?Worth Buying a Bottle?
YESYESNO

Expression 4
 SMWS 5.61 - 2000 Auchentoshan 16 Year 

Background: One of the few triple distilled whiskies in Scotland, unlike Ireland where that's the norm. Our whisky group had already dedicated two full tastings to Auchentoshan, so that's why the distillery is mostly absent from this one. 

Stats: 1st Fill PX Hogshead. ABV =  57.7%. Bottled 2017.
 

Tasting Notes: Ending on a high note here with a cask strength PX!  Starts off with a surprising coconut shrimp barbecue nose which trends towards sweet honey BBQ on the taste.  Super complex with a big range and long finish.  Appears that we saved the best for last!  But it was close - didn't think the Glenkinchie 24 could be topped.  
Worth Drinking Again?Worth Buying a Dram?Worth Buying a Bottle?
YESYESYES

[Tasting conducted with the Sneaky Trips Tasting Group which consists of Whisk(e)y Enthusiasts ranging from Beginner to Advanced.  Tastings are held monthly and are usually 8 Expressions based on a particular theme.]

Wednesday, November 21, 2018

Bottling Dates for Yamazaki, Hibiki, Hakushu

Part 3


Previously in Part 1 and Part 2, bottle codes and packaging changes offered clues as to when a particular Yamazaki, Hibiki, or Hakushu was bottled.  Bottle codes were great, but they only went back to 2006.  For older bottles, packaging variances narrowed down the bottling date a bit, but there could still be a wide range in some cases.  So, how to pare it down further?

Glass Date
Old Forester
AB 217470
86 Proof
Bottom Glass of Old Forester
Top Row = L-1014
Bottom Row = S 
Φ 88
What about investigating the raised lettering on the bottom of the bottles?  That's a proven method for approximating the bottling dates for older bourbons.  I have a dusty Old Forester that has “88” among other information on the bottom of the glass.  Often, this translates into the bottle mold being made in 1988, but not necessarily the year it was filled with spirit.  However… it’s usually pretty close to that year.  Definitely not 1987 or prior, the OF could possibly be from 1988 or 1989.  You would then have to review the labels for corroborating evidence that would place it around that time.

Unfortunately, on Yamazaki/Hibiki/Hakushu bottles, there are no consistent two digit numbers  similar to the bourbon example above.  What can be found, and this goes back to the 1980s at least, are words, letters, and numbers.  So, let’s explore that.

The words will spell out SUNTORY (LTD) and JAPAN, and, depending on the expression, LIQUOR BOTTLE. (U.S. Hibiki bottles will most likely have 750ML on the bottom glass as well.)  Pretty straight forward – no insight here.

2018 Hakushu 12
First Time Released
With Box in U.S.
Two “rows” of alphanumeric code are present.  The top row format consists of a
one or two-digit number, followed by some blank space, followed by a single letter or a letter plus an additional letter/number. A few examples of top row strings are “4     YS”, “11     T3”, and “2     Y”.  The second set of characters must point to bottle type as YS can be found on the latest U.S. Hakushu 12s, while T3 shows up on various Hibiki bottles. The preceding number(s) can’t have anything to do with the bottling date, however, as they will vary on bottles that are definitely from the same year.  One of the recent Hakushu 12s has top row of  “4     YS” while another one has “14     YS”.

Bottom of 2018 Hakushu 12
Top Row = 4   YS
Bottom Row = 7 - III
So, what about the second row?  The format is always a single digit number, usually followed by a dash, then followed by one to four vertical lines.  Staying with the aforementioned 2018 Hakushu 12s, the bottom string on all of them is “7 – III”.  Now that's interesting!

Let’s investigate some other bottles and that bottom row, starting with expressions that have already established bottling dates via the label, regardless of the bottle code.  Yamazaki put out an annual Limited Edition release between 2014-2017. The bottom string on my 2017 bottling is “6 – IIII”.  The bottom row of Yamazaki Bourbon Barrel 2013 reads “3 – III”.

Transferring this and other available data to the table below, can you recognize a pattern emerging?

EXPRESSION GLASS
BOTTOM ROW
BOTTLING
CODE
BOTTLING
YEAR
Hakushu 12 7 - III LK8ANN 2018
Hakushu 12 7 - III LK8AMC 2018
Yamazaki LE 2017 6 - IIII LX7DOK 2017
Yamazaki 18 3 - IIII W4EJE 2014
Yamazaki 18 3 - IIII S3LJW 2013
Yamazaki Bourbon 2013 3 - III X3OJJ 2013
Hibiki 12 2 - II U2LOT 2012
Hakushu 1994 6 - III D6JOA 2006

In Part 1, the Bottling Code pattern revealed that the single digit before the 3 letters at the end (or the middle in some cases) represents the last digit in the bottling year.  On the bottom row of the glass, the single digit on the left either matches that "key number" on the bottling code or equals the key number minus one.  Every time.  I've looked at over a hundred bottles with bottling codes and this pattern is consistent.  If you've got one that doesn't conform, I'd like to see it!

Now let's apply the single digit theory to the glass.  It seems a reasonable conclusion that the "key number" on the left of the bottom row on the glass is the last digit of the year in which the bottle was manufactured.  And I believe it is fair to then assume that the bottle was either filled that same year or the following year.   And that's it, mystery solved!

The next step is to review some data from pre-2006 bottles, swapping out Bottling Code for significant markers from the label or bottle that support the bottling year estimation.

EXPRESSIONGLASS
BOTTOM ROW
MARKERBOTTLING
YEAR
Hibiki 172 - IIIIHibiki Crest2002/2003
Yamazaki 121 - IIPure Malt2001/2002*
Hibiki (Original)8 - IIIIHibiki Crest1998/1999
Hakushu 127 - IIIIPure Malt1997/1998
Hibiki (Original)7 - IHibiki Crest1997/1998
Yamazaki 106 - IIPure Malt1996/1997
Hibiki (Original)5 - IIIGold Stopper1995/1996
Yamazaki 185 - IIIPure Malt1995/1996

1995 Yamazaki 18
Bottom Row 5 - II
The Hibiki 17 is from 2002/2003 and not 2012/2013 because it has a Hibiki Crest on the label. And we've established that Hibiki 17 did not appear until 2001, so it's not from 1992/93.  But it's not always so cut and dry.  Any Yamazaki 12 with a 1, 2, or 3 key number on the glass can be problematic.  Both 1991, 1992, 1993 and 2001, 2002, 2003 bottlings would have both the Hibiki Crest and Pure Malt designation.  Yamazaki 18s would have a similar challenge for those year ranges as well if not for the bottles being numbered in Japan during that span.  Lower numbered labels would be the early 1990s.  So, deeper diving into label variation is necessary for those cases, but for the most part, the code has been cracked!

Don't want to dive into too much minutiae - the important thing is that you should now be able to answer the question posed in Part 1 and approximate the bottling date of that original Hibiki NAS that you've been wondering about!  Does your bottle have a key number of "0" on the bottom glass and does it have the Lion Crest?  Then you've got a 1990/91 bottling.  If it has the same key number but a Hibiki Crest instead, then you're looking at a 2000/01 bottling.

Monday, October 29, 2018



NIKKA DISTILLERY EXCLUSIVES

For this months's tasting, we sampled almost all of the current Distillery Exclusives from both Yoichi and Miyagikyo.

* FLIGHT ONE *
Expression 1
 Miyagikyo Sherry Cask 2015 
 

The Miyagikyo Sherry
Cask 2015 was
the odds on favorite
to be best in show -
and it was!
Background: Okay, not a distillery exclusive, but an extremely limited special edition. (The Yoichi Heavily Peated came out at the same time.)  This was released right around the time that Yamazaki Sherry Cask 2013 won Jim Murray's Whisky of the Year and set off the current Japanese whisky craze.  

Stats: Limited to 3000 Bottles.  Aged in Spanish Sherry Casks.  ABV = 48%

Tasting Notes: With the high ABV of all the whiskies we were drinking today, it was prudent to have a warm up to get the taste buds acclimated.  Our "opener" was the current Miyagikyo Single Malt NAS @ 45% ABV.  And it helped immensely.  I've had the excellent Sherry Cask 2015 before, but this time, it was transcendent.  Perhaps a little air in the bottle helped? Incredibly well balanced and complex.  This beauty is definitely not a one note sherry bomb like the Yamazaki Sherry Cask 2016.  Exceptional.

Worth Drinking Again?Worth Buying a Pour?Worth Buying a Bottle?
YESYESYES

Expression 2
 Miyagikyo Sherry + Sweet 

Background:  
When this line of Distillery Exclusives was originally rolled out, they were all 12 Year Age Statements.  A few years back, new packaging was introduced as well as converting to No Age Statement along with all of Nikka's single malts.

Stats: ABV = 55%.  Bottled 2016.
 

Tasting Notes: Prefer the nose on this one - definitely punchier as expected with the higher ABV.  But the taste isn't as complex as the 2015 - more of a one note sherry bomb, plus a short finish.  Still, it's Miyagikyo Sherry - I wouldn't slam the door in its face should it come calling in the middle of the night.

Worth Drinking Again?Worth Buying a Dram?Worth Buying a Bottle?
YESYESYES

Expression 3
 Yoichi Sherry + Sweet 

Background: All of the Distillery Exclusives have unique names for each distillery - except this one.  Sherry + Sweet expressions exist at both Miyagikyo and Yoichi.  You really have to pay attention as to which is which since the design is so similar.

Stats: ABV = 55%. Bottled 2017. 
 

Tasting Notes: Nose leans toward expected Yoichi coastal, peaty notes.  A meatier, buttery taste as well compared to its counterpart, along with salty and light peat notes.  Finish is more on the chocolate-y side.  Nice range overall.  This one should be called Sherry + Salty + Sweet.

Worth Drinking Again?Worth Buying a Dram?Worth Buying a Bottle?
YESYESYES

Expression 4
 Yoichi 2000's 

 
Background: Comprised of single malt whisky distilled anywhere between 2000 and 2009.  Miyagikyo also has a 2000's expression, but that was one of two Distillery Exclusives that were not part of this tasting.  (The other being Nikka Coffey Grain Woody + Mellow.) Similar 1980's and 1990's expressions exist as well, but those are long gone from the Distillery Gift Shops.

Stats: ABV = 57%. Bottled 2017. 
 

Tasting Notes: Spicy nose.  Not as peaty as expected.  Caramel dominates taste and finish.  Adding some water produced a better range, spreading out the dense flavors, and making it more enjoyable.

Worth Drinking Again?Worth Buying a Dram?Worth Buying a Bottle?
YESYESNO

* FLIGHT TWO *
Expression 1
 Miyagikyo Fruity + Rich 

Background: Nikka Distillery Exclusives are only available at their respective gift shops.  Yoichi expressions only at Yoichi.  Same for Miyagikyo.  The aforementioned Nikka Coffey Malt Woody + Mellow is the only exception - it can be purchased at either. So you'd have to go to both distilleries to get them all.  No easy task.  All are bottled at 180ml and 500ml.

Stats: ABV = 55%. Bottled 2016 
 

Tasting Notes: Aptly named with its big fruity nose.  Taste is apricot malty finished in powder sugar on a glazed donut.  Not a huge range, but very nice indeed.

Worth Drinking Again?Worth Buying a Dram?Worth Buying a Bottle?
YESYESNO

Expression 2
 Yoichi Woody + Vanillic 

Background: Yoichi was the first Nikka distillery, founded in 1934 by Masataka Taketsuru.  Prior to that, he was one of the two men behind the first Japanese Whisky Distillery, Yamazaki.

Stats: ABV = 55 %. Bottled 2017
 

Tasting Notes: Hello Japanese Bourbon! Could each of these "x + y" expressions just be the 3 components for their respective core range of distillery single malts? Sherry, Bourbon, and some sort of Puncheon or Hogshead?  This one would be the Bourbon Barrel, if you couldn't tell. Big time Bourbon nose and that smooth, sweet taste.

Worth Drinking Again?Worth Buying a Dram?Worth Buying a Bottle?
YESYESNO

Expression 3
 Miyagikyo Malty + Soft  

Background: While Suntory can claim the first single malt distillery in Japan, Nikka can boast they had their second before their rival did. Miyagikyo, built in 1969, pre-dates Suntory's second distillery, Hakushu, by 4 years.  The whiskies of Yoichi tend to compare to Scottish Coastal Highlands, or even Islay, while Miyagikyo's distillate is similar to those of Central Highlands and Speyside.

Stats: ABV = 55%. Bottled 2016.
 

Tasting Notes: Big time marshmallow nose at first, evolving into fruit notes.  Tastes like salty malt balls, i.e. Whoppers, with an interesting pear guava finish.

Worth Drinking Again?Worth Buying a Dram?Worth Buying a Bottle?
YESYESNO

Expression 4
 Yoichi Peaty + Salty 

Background: Nikka was the first Japanese producer to win a major international award for its whisky.  In 2001, a Yoichi 10 Year Single Cask won Whisky Magazine's Best of the Best category.  

Stats: ABV = 55%. Bottled 2017.
 

Tasting Notes: Medium peat on the nose.  Taste is Peaty & Salty as described - big time!  Briny, with a soft, salty + malty finish.  Might be the best peated Japanese whisky that I've experienced. Recommend going back and forth with this and one of the Sherry expressions.  Outstanding!

Worth Drinking Again?Worth Buying a Dram?Worth Buying a Bottle?
YESYESYES

[Tasting conducted with the Sneaky Trips Tasting Group which consists of Whisk(e)y Enthusiasts ranging from Beginner to Advanced.  Tastings are held monthly and are usually 8 Expressions based on a particular theme.]

Tuesday, October 23, 2018

Bottling Dates for Yamazaki, Hibiki, Hakushu

Part 2


In Part 1, general bottle codes were discussed as well as specifics on some distilleries, including Suntory.  These bottle codes are batch numbers that can reveal what year a whisky was bottled. Suntory has only printed/etched codes on their bottles of Yamazaki, Hibiki, and Hakushu since approximately 2006.  So, what about dating bottles before then?

Let’s start with the introduction of the core expressions, charting from when the first Suntory Single Malt was released in 1984 from Yamazaki. 

EXPRESSION AGE YEARS AVAILABLE
Yamazaki NAS 1984 - 1986
Yamazaki 12 1986 - Present
Hibiki NAS 1989 - 2000
Yamazaki 18 1992 - Present
Hibiki 21 1994 - Present
Hakushu 12 1994 - Present
Yamazaki 10 1995 - 2012
Hibiki 30 1997 - Present
Yamazaki 25 1998 - Present
Hakushu 10 1998 - 2012
Hibiki 17 2000 - 2018
Hakushu 18 2006 - Present
Hakushu 25 2008 - Present
Hibiki 12 2009 - 2015
Yamazaki NAS* 2012 - Present
Hakushu NAS* 2012 - Present
Hibiki Harmony NAS 2015 - Present
(*Distiller's Reserve)

Most of the information above comes from the Yamazaki Distillery Museum as well as the Timeline on Suntory's website.  We'll have to see if Suntory's May 2018 announcement that Hakushu 12 and Hibiki 17 would be suspended that year until supply catches up with demand holds true.  I suspect those expressions will be out of production, with some stock being held back and distributed sporadically in subsequent years.  This strategy occurred previously when Hibiki 12 was discontinued in 2015, but continued to show up here and there over the next couple years, at least in the United States.  The only difference being that Hibiki 12 has not, and likely will not, return.  [UPDATE: Hakushu 12 officially back in core line-up as of 2021.]

Speaking of Hibiki 17, there are those out there that believe that the original Hibiki No Age Statement (NAS) from 1989 should actually be considered Hibiki 17 and not NAS.  I'll dive into that mess another time.  But for purposes here, my research shows that the first time a 17 Year age statement appeared on a Hibiki bottle was in 2000/2001.  At any rate, in order to break down bottling dates even further, we need to look at the label for certain markers and design changes.

Markers
Tax Classification (1984-1989)
Katakana characters at the
bottom left translate to
"Whisky Special Class"
 

Isolating the two 
Katakana characters 
referring to tax code
From the seventies until the end of eighties, there was a requirement for whisky bottles sold in Japan to categorize their contents as either First Class, Second Class, or Special Class.  Essentially, this classification was based on the alcohol content and determined the amount of tax that would be charged.  In the pic to the right, the first 5 Katakana characters are probably familiar – they translate to “whisky” - while the last two designate the Tax Class.  If your bottle has those last two characters, then it was bottled mid-1989 or prior.  If your bottle just has the “whisky” characters and nothing else, then it was bottled after that.  This marker only applies to the first 3 expressions on the chart above.

Corporate Logo: Lion Crest (1984-1991) vs. Hibiki Crest (1991-2004) 
Lion Crest circa 1989
Hibiki Crest 1991-2004

Suntory’s Lion Crest logo evolved over many years until it appeared as shown on the left in the late 1980s.  The Lion Crest is most useful in determining a first edition Hibiki Whisky.
In 1991, a new corporate identity was adopted, the Hibiki Crest (sometimes referred to as the Flower Crest, among others). And it can be found on bottles until at least 2004. Oddly enough, the Hibiki Crest is not directly related to Hibiki Blended Whisky.  In fact, the logo actually pre-dates Hibiki Whisky by 3 years.  For more on the origins of the Hibiki Crest, click through to this blog.

Malt Designation: Pure Malt (1984-2003) vs. Single Malt (2004-on)
Hakushu Pure Malt 12
(Japan Bottling 1997)
Hakushu Single Malt 12
(US Bottling 2018)

Suntory labeled their single malts from Yamazaki and Hakushu as “Pure Malts” from 1984-2003.  As far as the Scotch Whisky Association (SWA) is concerned, a Pure Malt equates to a vatting of single malts from more than one distillery.  Japan has no such regulatory association governing their whisky. And while true Japanese whisky has always sought to emulate the traditional Scotch-making process, they obviously do not have to follow any SWA definitions.

So why didn’t they designate their single malts for what they were?  Marketing and tradition, I suspect.  “Purity” is just a better selling point in Japan.  I’m guessing the reason they changed to labeling them as Single Malts was to finally get more in line with the rest of the world, to improve international sales, and so their whisky could be entered into the correct category in competitions.  Also note that circa 2003, there was a transition period where Yamazaki and Hakushu were classified as both Pure Malt and Single Malt on the same label!
Hakushu Pure/Single Malt 12
(Japanese Bottling 2003)

Bottle Volume: 760ml vs. 750ml vs. 700ml

Japan has utilized a variety of unusual bottle capacities over the years for their core expressions, including 600, 660, 720, 760ml, among others.  When Yamazaki was first introduced in 1984, the bottle contained 760 milliliters and appears to stay that way until approximately 1988, when the standard was updated to 750ml.  I assume the change was implemented so Suntory could export to the US and EU standards.

In 1990, the EU determined their standard bottling would shift from 750ml to 700ml. However, this appears to not have been implemented until 1992. Many assume that Japanese bottlers adjusted at the same time, but that is not the case. (And why would they?  They're not part of the EU.)  This became immediately apparent when I looked at my 750ml Yamazaki Pure Malt 10, a product that didn’t exist until 1995.  At first glance, it appears that Japan switched to primarily 700ml around 1998 with the introduction of Yamazaki 25.

Or did they? I’ve only recently discovered evidence that both 700ml and 750ml bottlings of the same expression existed in Japan in the late 90s to possibly the early-2000s.  Same exact expressions with unique UPC barcodes and different volumes – talk about confusing.  Still researching this head scratcher.  So, unfortunately, there is no definitive marker point for volume change from 750 to 700.

Now, with the information above, we should be able to narrow down some bottling dates within a range of years.  Take the Hakushu 12 Pure Malt above.  That expression was first introduced in 1994.  The Pure Malt designation lasted until 2003. (While the Hibiki logo appears on the bottle, that information is superseded by the Pure Malt information.) But that's still a pretty big range, 1994-2003. It IS 750ml, which leads me to believe that it is a 90s bottling - but, that marker is a little murky as I mentioned.  So how did I confidently claim in the caption that the bottle in question was from 1997?  For that answer, we'll have to scrape the bottom the bottle in Part 3.